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Knurlers

Knurlers held in via friction pins.


Scissors-type knurler. This type works very
well.
All the pressure is in-between the cutters & it floats on the pivot.
Left, right & bottom views shown as mounted in a
Phase2+ tool holder.
I modified the pivot bolt head & added a lock nut to it.

Knurling aluminum in the Jet BD-920N lathe.

A standard knurler with interchangeable cutters.
Also holds a tool bit for facing cuts.
Really need a rigid machine & setup for this type of knurler since it exerts
high side forces.


Clamping-type knurler from
LMS. Good for light knurling in soft
materials.
Scissors-type can exert higher pressures to form a true, high-grip, pyramidal pattern.

Replaced pivots with 10-24, ¼" x ¾" shoulder bolts
with lock nuts
for added precision, strength & ease of knurl pair changes.
The bolt heads on the left had flats milled into them to engage the step to
prevent rotation.

A knurler for the
Taig Micro Lathe closely patterned
after the Sherline design, but stronger.
Standard-sized knurls pivot on ¼" diameter hardened dowel pins.
They are held in place by 10-24 set screws. The pin holes were precision reamed.
Knurl pockets (1" L x ⅜" W x 0.7" D) were made using a ⅜", 2-flute, carbide end
mill.
Used the RF-25 mill with its DRO-350 tool diameter
off-set feature.
Two, ¼-20 cap-head cross-bolts easily exert all the knurling force.
The two supports have keys that ride in a carriage T-slot.
10-32 threaded rods are used for the hold-down bolts.
First, finger tighten the hold-down bolts, adjust cross-bolts for desired knurl
depth, then wrench tighten the hold-down bolts.
Turn the spindle by hand for smaller jobs & use the low, 525 RPM for larger jobs.
Put light pressure on the right to left carriage travel while knurling.


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